The plain weave furthermore known as “calico” or “tabby” weave is the simplest of all weaves. The array of relevance of this weave is wide. The threads interlace on alternating order of 1 up and 1 down.

The code involved in the making or construction of a basic plain cloth is the interlacement of  two continuous threads or the weavers lingo calls them warp (vertical yarn) or weft (horizontal yarn) in an opposite approach to each other, with every thread in each series passing alternately below and above consecutive threads forming a simple criss - cross pattern. Hence through such interlacement plan every warp interlaces with every thread to its maximum limit, thus producing a firm texture of cloth. Below diagram would give you a better perceptive of the weave where the Y Axis determines the warp and X Axis the weft.




RIB WEAVE:
Rib is a variant of the Plain weave. It is created very correspondingly to a plain weave. The basic construction follows the same pattern, modified by extending it warp or weft way or both The dissimilarity can also be that Rib weave uses one heavyweight yarn. This is used for either the warp of weft yarns and the end result is a fabric that has raised ribs either horizontally or vertically down the fabric, depending on whether the heavier, thicker yarn is used for the warp or the weft. Multiple variations of Ribs are Warp Rib, Weft Rib & Plain Rib.


 

MATT  OR BASKET WEAVE:
Basket is again a variant of the plain weave. It follows the same pattern of the weft going under one warp yarn and over the next, creating a checkerboard effect.(See figure)
 




The matt rib structures result from extending the plain weave in both directions.

The difference between the two is that adjacent yarns are grouped together. They are usually grouped in pairs, but sometimes more yarns can be grouped together. These are woven as if they are one yarn. This results in a fabric that resembles a woven basket; this is where the name originates.

In case of regular matt weave, the plain weaves are extended equally in the warp and weft directions, where as in case of irregular matt weaves, the plain weave is extended unevenly or irregularly in the warp and weft directions.

Fabrics that are woven out with the variations are:

Chiffon Silk

Chiffon literally means “rag” in French. A very light, sheer fabric, Chiffon is made with a loose, plain weave and tightly twisted single crêpe yarns in both warp and weft.
This beautiful,elegant, sheer fabric is quite bendy, with a beautiful drape. It has a soft, supple, thin hand and a flat, crepe-like texture.It made from silk, cotton, nylon, polyester, or rayon.It is basically refers to a light plain woven sheer fabric. It is delicate in appearance, it is a relatively strong, balanced fabric and can be dyed or printed for use in dresses, millinery, scarves, and lampshades.. Due to this delicate nature, chiffon must be hand washed very gently.It adds a magical look to the dress and wearer's personality.


Georgette:

The threads used in georgette fabric are highly twisted. Hence when they are weaved the yarns causes them to crinkle as the tension from the sides are relaxed. The construction of georgette is rather tight, but the overall appearance is slightly sheer because the threads are very thin.
Georgette fabric is also unusually strong unlike other silks. It holds up well to assorted wear.
Since silk is highly permeable, georgette fabric can easily be dyed in a multitude of colors, or printed with a pattern.


Shantung:

The surface of Shantung is both crisp and has a sheen. It may have slubs ( A soft thick nub in yarn that is either an imperfection orpurposely set for a desired effect).
Shantung silk is produced from wild silk, and therefore it has had very little or no sericin(the gummy substance that clings to silkworm thread within the cocoon) removed,. This results in the thick and bulky appearance of shantung silk, as well as its lower cost compared to more processed silk.

Seersucker:

It is created by holding some warp yarns at tight tension, some at relaxed or limp tension. Those at the limp tension draft or puff  up to form a sort of blistered-effect.
Often the looseand tight yarn of different colour.

Seersucker is considered to be a puckered, striped, lightweight cotton fabric. The most widespread version is striped in blue and white, although there are many other color combinations.

TEXTURE:

Texture is a term allied to type of material, counts of yarn, relative density of threads, weight ,bulk, feel during handle, and other properties. The range of textures produced in plain cloth is wide. An idyllic plain cloth is one which has identical or similar warp and weft constructional parameters. The larger the number of intersections the better will be the steadfastness of the cloth. There are variety of forms and textures produced by plain weave acquiring totally different
characteristics, which adapt it for specific purposes.
 
A wide range of forms in textures are produced by causing a degree of difference in the tension between the warp threads during weaving, or by using various counts of yarn for weaving different types of fabrics, and also using warp and weft yarns of different counts in the same fabric.

END USES:

Plain weaves have far-reaching uses and is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhothi, saree, shirting, suiting, etc.

Rib weaves finds its utility in gross grain cloths, matelasse fabrics, repp cloth which is extensively employed for window blinds in railway carriages and other vehicles, upholstering furniture, and cambric picket handkerchief.

Puneet Chaumal - Jan 7, 2017: