Basket is again a variant of the plain weave. It follows the same pattern of the weft going under one warp yarn and over the next, creating a checkerboard effect.(See figure)
The matt rib structures result from extending the plain weave in both directions.
The difference between the two is that adjacent yarns are grouped together. They are usually grouped in pairs, but sometimes more yarns can be grouped together. These are woven as if they are one yarn. This results in a fabric that resembles a woven basket; this is where the name originates.
For an irregular matt, the plain weave is extended irregularly in the warp and weft directions, whereas in case of regular matt weaves the plain weaves are extended equally in the warp and weft directions.
Method of Construction: Two or more warps simultaneously interlaced with one or more fillings.
Properties of Basket Woven Fabrics
• Interesting patterns are created using different colored yarns creating a contrast.
• More pliant and stronger than plain weave
• Loose compared to plain weave
• Frays easily
• Flatter than plain weave
• Has comparatively lesser crimp
• Good drape
Example of Basket weave:
Monks cloth:
It is a heavy cotton cloth which has a rough basket weave that are mainly used for draperies.
Oxford:
Oxford weave comprises of two, thin warp yarns woven to very soft, thicker yarn in the weft direction. The unbalanced construction of the fabric causes the thin yarns to break and leave tiny holes. The primary use of oxford weave fabric is in cotton shirting. It is also used in other forms of apparel.
Fabrics that are woven out with the variations are:
Chiffon Silk
Chiffon literally means “rag” in French. A very light, sheer fabric, Chiffon is made with a loose, plain weave and tightly twisted single crêpe yarns in both warp and weft.
This beautiful,elegant, sheer fabric is quite bendy, with a beautiful drape. It has a soft, supple, thin hand and a flat, crepe-like texture.It made from silk, cotton, nylon, polyester, or rayon.It is basically refers to a light plain woven sheer fabric.
It is delicate in appearance, it is a relatively strong, balanced fabric and can be dyed or printed for use in dresses, millinery, scarves, and lampshades.. Due to this delicate nature, chiffon must be hand washed very gently.It adds a magical look to the dress and wearer's personality.
Georgette:
The threads used in georgette fabric are highly twisted. Hence when they are weaved the yarns causes them to crinkle as the tension from the sides are relaxed. The construction of georgette is rather tight, but the overall appearance is slightly sheer because the threads are very thin.
Georgette fabric is also unusually strong unlike other silks. It holds up well to assorted wear.
Since silk is highly permeable, georgette fabric can easily be dyed in a multitude of colors, or printed with a pattern.
Shantung:
The surface of Shantung is both crisp and has a sheen. It may have slubs( A soft thick nub in yarn that is either an imperfection orpurposely
set for a desired effect).
Shantung silk is produced from wild silk, and therefore it has had very little or no sericin(the gummy substance that clings to silkworm thread within the cocoon) removed,. This results in the thick and bulky appearance of shantung silk, as well as its lower cost compared to more processed silk.
Seersucker:
It is created by holding some warp yarns at tight tension, some at relaxed or limp tension. Those at the limp tension draft or puff up to form a sort of blistered-effect.
Often the looseand tight yarn of different colour.
Seersucker is considered to be a puckered, striped, lightweight cotton fabric. The most widespread version is striped in blue and white, although there are many other color combinations.
